Cuisine:

• Sea food
• Steak House
• Italian
• Creole

Mosca's Description:
Mosca's inhabits a white clapboard roadhouse that could be mistaken for a large tool shed were it not for the sign outside. A half-hour's drive from New Orleans, the eatery doesn't deal in décor: the worn, bare-cypress floors, mismatched flatware and calendar art on the walls is the setting for some of what can be (when the moon is right) the best Italian-Creole cooking anywhere. Natural meat juices, olive oil and familiar herbs from the Italian pantry are the staples here. Huge shrimp are steeped in butter, olive oil, rosemary and bay leaf to become the ultimate version of barbecue shrimp. Hard-shell crabs glory in a cool marinade of onions and other aromatics. Freshly made, sweet Italian sausages are oven-roasted with potatoes that absorb the meat's juices. Oysters are fine company for a gratin of garlicky breadcrumbs studded with artichoke bits and rosemary. The baked chicken à la grande, a famous specialty here, is a study in lusty flavor. The house-made spaghetti, although often overcooked, is a good vehicle for a dousing of olive oil and garlic. Service is as perfunctory as the wine list, which contains a handful of familiar Italian vintages. Note: reservations not accepted Saturday.


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