Cuisine:

• Others
• Italian

Scopa Description:
Blink and you might miss this sliver of a restaurant between a bistro and a bar along Healdsburg's town square; it's set back from the sidewalk, with intentionally under-the-radar signage. The name pays tribute to a lively Italian card game, captured in a mural above a snug marble bar in back and conjured up by framed playing cards against a cement brick wall. Patrons in the narrow space string out along a crimson banquette or rub elbows at tightly spaced wood chopping block tables. No one seems to mind the chumminess; it almost feels as though friends rented out the place for a private party. Antipasti play the lead role, making Scopa ideal for solo diners and those open to sharing. A radicchio salad comes with sweet house-cured pancetta, getting double-bill in the sage-scented caramelized Brussels sprouts. Be swayed by hearty spicy meatballs, well-browned and paired with smoky mozzarella, or the signature pulled pork, served confit style at room temp in olive oil, with fig marmalade and greens, a marriage of tangy and sweet. A handful of entrées include simple pizzas and long-braised duck ragoût with fat folds of handmade pappardelle tossed in white wine, lemon and juniper berry. The only wish: that the crunchy house-baked ciabatta bread and local olive oil were free-flowing rather than menu items.


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