Cuisine:

• French
• Others
• Contemporary

Lilette Description:
Chef John Harris named his modest and charming establishment for the grandmotherly chef in Provence who was a major inspiration in his culinary preparation. Harris consistently dazzles with his powers and range, crafting such straightforward dishes as grilled beets with goat cheese and walnuts and such innovative ones as the warm sizzling shrimp in a vinaigrette scented with Meyer lemon and oregano. A roasted half poussin is as juicy as they come, radiating the tastes of poached garlic, mushrooms and shallots in the reduction of the bird's juices. A deftly grilled paillard of veal is surrounded by a crisp toss of arugula, prosciutto, white beans and olives. Desserts are no laggards, either, with such examples as the warm, caramel-rich tarte Tatin leading the pack. The brief but ambitious wine list includes wines that are as drinkable and reasonably priced as they are obscure. The dining room was fashioned from an old corner pharmacy, and clings tenaciously to the traditional ceramic tile floor. Maroon walls and wide-paned windows are the principal design elements---the properly simple environment for this first-rate cooking. On a cool evening, the side patio is one of the most romantic spots in the city.