Cuisine:

• Others
• Italian
• Bistro

Mia Dona Description:
This sober and unassuming Midtown Italian restaurant, run by Donatella Arpaia, belies the exciting Pugliese-inspired, home-style specialties offered here. Chef Jarett Appell's thoughtfully designed menu proposes a roster of unusual and traditional delicacies. For example, appetizers such as oysters with candied lemon peel coexist with white bean bruschetta and a plate of tender meatballs. The compendium of pasta dishes can inspire indecision: the orecchiette with Sunday ragù, for example, features herb-infused braciole; another winner is the light ricotta gnocchi, doused with caciocavallo sauce and sausage so finely ground it's almost imperceptible. Save room for "secondi," or main courses. Two standout choices are the simple branzino filet with olive oil-laced mashed potatoes and the braised beef tripe in a sweet, spicy tomato sauce. Most importantly, don't ignore the "contorni," or vegetable side dishes. Appell pays homage to the beauty of broccoli rabe by bringing out its deep, forest-green color and uniquely powerful flavor. Simple desserts such as zeppole, ricotta cheesecake and gelato are reminiscent of authentic Italian "dolci." The wine list spans the globe from New Zealand to California to, of course, Italy, offering some "brand" labels as well as some decent and affordable bottles and wines by the glass.


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