Cuisine:

• American
• Sandwiches

Garnett's Description:
Souvenir plates adorn the walls and pickling jars line the shelves at this pie wedge of an eatery, exhibiting the quaint and quirky charm of a favorite great-aunt. But there's a hipness, too, a contemporary undercurrent, that makes sandwiches like chicken salad and sliced cold meatloaf, which could have come straight from a mid-twentieth century American housewife's playbook, feel fresh and now. Classic croque monsieur (grilled ham and Gruyère), a WBLT (roasted garlic white bean spread with lettuce and tomato on toasted Italian bread) and a savory cheesecake du jour add to the eclecticism. Beer and wine are available, but it's more fun to watch proprietress Kendra Feather, who also owns the vegetarian Impanema Café near VCU, hand juice lemons for an effervescent ade. The same menu of soups, sandwiches and salads holds sway all day and night, but every morning this dinette is a coffee shop with baked goods and a good cuppa. Preternatural red cardinal cake is kissin' cousin to red velvet. Named for the state bird, it'll set you humming.


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