Cuisine:

• Chinese

Pearl Inn Chinese Restaurant Description:
Pearl's beigy pink and bogus-plant interior qualifies as one of the city's more downplayed Asian environments---in contrast to the tasseled-lantern types, that is. Starters such as the shredded pork and spicy pickle soup are much more forward than the décor, and even the chicken lettuce wrap is unique in its assertive seasoning. The menu holds relatively true to tradition, and if a dish such as beef with orange peel could use more chili heat, the ma-paw tofu is supremely satisfying in its silky texture and rich, brown sauce. Peking duck, a pricing anomaly at $35, is an alternative to the standard, roast model, but there is otherwise very little that stands out us unique. Desserts can be dismissed at Pearl (as at most Chinese restaurants)---but do pay attention to the fortune cookies with real fortunes, not cute aphorisms.


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