Cuisine:

• Others
• Italian

Grissini Description:
Ever in search of the grail of locations, Grissini has once again moved---this time to tony Alamo Heights in a much more upscale shopping center. It wasn't obvious that chef-owner DeRosa's Pugliese background should largely be jettisoned in the process, but such seems to be the case; many of the dishes that served to distinguish Grissini from the fettuccine and scaloppine crowd appear to have disappeared. We enjoy a grilled vegetable antipasto, made to order, all the while wishing for more heart and soul; grilled calamari on greens might be a better choice. Pasta, whether as a preliminary to bigger plates or an entrée in its own right, was always preeminent, and though the selection is now more mainstream, the risotto pescatore, lavishly studded with squid and shrimp, proves that the touch, at least, remains. Veal saltimbocca is properly prepared but evokes no expressions of delight. The serviceable wine list can yield a robust red from Northern Italy, for example, but its wines by the glass fail to inspire---a shame, since lingering in the pleasant surroundings, which include such atmospheric touches as an electronically-enhanced "fireplace," would surely be encouraged. That task then may lie with the tiramisu.


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