Cuisine:

• Japanese
• Bistro
• Sushi bar
• Contemporary

Zushi Japanese Bistro Description:
Watching chef-owner Kevin Chang slice into pristine fish with clinical precision, you think he should have been a surgeon. Admiring his plate presentations---each item placed with aesthetic deliberateness as if in a Japanese landscape---you think he should have been an artist. But tasting his creations---Hama Hama oysters with soy-citrus sauce, flounder slivers interspersed with blood oranges, spicy tuna glimmering like Cartier cuts cradled in endive logically followed by palate-cleansing rockfish belly---you sigh contentedly knowing that he was born for Zushi (a more Eastern pronunciation of sushi). Many of the area's top chefs come to his bamboo-imbued bar for their nigiri and sashimi fix, but fish is just part of Zushi's tale. It sparkles with influences both Asian and Occidental, hence the bistro appendage. Chang's hot kitchen produces homemade gyoza as well as char-grilled veal porterhouse with ginger-strawberry teriyaki and broccolini. His sister-in-law, who trained at Paris' Le Cordon Bleu, creates French pastries for dessert. And Chang rolls chocolate truffles in green tea powder for Valentine's Day and teases (but you wouldn't put it past him) about matzoh ball-miso soup at Passover. Zushi has an attractive dining room, but there's nothing like the counter where Chang is as decisive with his knife as he is with his opinions.


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