Nicaragua remains undiscovered by the tourist hordes, with misconceptions still lingering in the popular consciousness.

During the 19th century, the American William Walker took effective control of Nicaragua's government and national army, with the plan of remodelling Nicaragua as a slave colony annexed to the US. Walker was defeated after a bitter struggle and eventually executed in 1865. Much later, in 1912, the USA were called upon by conservatives to intervene to resolve Nicaragua's serious domestic upheaval, resolving around issues such as the failure to secure the construction of an Atlantic-Pacific canal. The Americans maintained a constant military presence for the next two decades, and most Nicaraguan politicians acquiesced to American will.

However, a radical group, led by Augusto César Sandino – who gave his name to the Sandinista movement – launched an effective guerrilla campaign that forced the Americans’ departure in 1933. But a new power had arisen in the form of the paramilitary National Guard, led by General Anastasio Somoza Garcia. Sandino and his senior commanders were arrested by Somoza and executed in early 1934; Somoza was soon elected president, duly establishing a military dictatorship characterized by brutality, despotism and systematic corruption. Upon assassination in 1956, his son, Luis Somoza Delbaye, immediately took over; but, at the turn of the 1960s, a rebel movement called the Frente Sandinista de Liberación Nacional (FSLN) began a guerrilla campaign, which finally overthrew the Somozas in 1979.

The ‘Sandinistas’ established a Junta of National Reconstruction and began a program of agrarian reform, nationalization of industry and massive health and literacy schemes. However, in 1981, following the election of Ronald Reagan as US president, the Americans – under the banner of fighting communism – began a program of destabilization in Nicaragua, helping ‘Contra’ guerrilla forces in Honduras and Costa Rica and mounting an economic boycott. Repeated attempts to negotiate a settlement were opposed by the USA, determined to topple the Sandinistas.

Finally, in 1989, a deal was agreed to end the insurgency. Years of turmoil and austerity had damaged Sandinista popularity and Violeta Chamorro, widow of Chamorro killed by the Somoza regime, won the election in 1990, representing the combined opposition, UNO Alliance. The disintegration of this artificially-created UNO coalition in the mid-1990s was to be expected. More of a surprise was the split in the traditionally disciplined Sandinistas.

The days of the Contra war and the Sandinistas are over, no more than fascinating graffiti and gunfire stuck stubbornly on walls. And, although certain parts of Nicaragua are best avoided, it is actually one of the safest countries in Central America, enhanced by its friendly, welcoming people. Although certain areas lack tourist facilities, some do not – and those that do are arguably better for their untouched beauty and 'off the beaten track' appeal. This appeal, should you visit, is instantly evident: Nicaragua incorporates three stunning eco-regions (Pacific, Central and Atlantic), containing everything from volcanoes, tropical forests, beaches, and agricultural land.

Geography
Nicaragua borders Honduras to the north and Costa Rica to the south. To the east lies the Caribbean, and to the west the Pacific. In the north are the Isabella Mountains, while the country’s main feature in the southwest is Lake Nicaragua, 148km (92 miles) long and about 55km (34 miles) at its widest. The island of Ometepe is the largest of the 310 islands on the lake. These islands have a reputation for great beauty and are one of the country’s main tourist attractions. Lake Managua is situated to the northwest. Volcanoes, including the famous Momotombo, protrude from the surrounding lowlands northwest of the lakes. The country’s main rivers are the San Juan, the lower reaches of which form the border with Costa Rica, and the Rio Grande. The Corn Islands (Islas del Maiz) in the Caribbean are two small beautiful islands fringed with white coral and palms. They are very popular as holiday resorts with both Nicaraguans and tourists. The majority of Nicaragua’s population lives and works in the lowland between the Pacific and western shores of Lake Nicaragua, the southwestern shore of Lake Managua and the southwestern sides of the range of volcanoes. It is only in recent years that settlers have taken to coffee growing and cattle farming in the highlands around Matagalpa and Jinotega.