Known as the ‘Jade City’ due to the green tinge in the stone used in the construction of many of its buildings, Oaxaca is a culturally diverse city. It is the capital of a state whose pre-Hispanic, colonial and indigenous roots are vividly expressed through its architecture, craft traditions, Zapotec and Mixtec archaeological sites, gastronomy and festivals – the Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes) and the Guelaguetza in particular reflect age-old traditions. Within its 95,364 sq km (59,258 miles) live 16 ethnic groups, each with its own dialect or language, making the state one of the most linguistically and culturally varied of any in Mexico. In 1987, UNESCO declared both Oaxaca city and the Zapotec site of Monte Albán, 9km (5.5 miles) away, to be a ‘Cultural Heritage of Humanity’. Traditional arts and crafts – hand-woven and hand-embroidered clothing, alebrijes (painted wooden figures and fantastical creatures), rugs, gold jewelry and distinctive, shiny black pottery – reflect the vibrancy and skill of modern artists who have built on, and refined, older artistic traditions. Works by Oaxacan artists, particularly those of Rufino Tamayo, Francisco Toledo and Rodolfo Morales, are recognized internationally, and several galleries within the town specialize in modern art; it is also possible to visit artists in their homes to purchase paintings. Oaxaca’s relaxed atmosphere belies its sizeable student and language-school population, both of which have added vibrancy to the town’s nightlife. In the bandstand of the central zócalo, the former state marimba band gives free concerts most nights of the week, while local musicians play at the tables of the cafes and restaurants under the arcades that edge the square. Dominating the northwest corner of the square is the Cathedral. Construction commenced in the 16th century but, due to earthquake damage, it was only completed two centuries later. Its Baroque façade is decorated with some fine bas-reliefs. The Neo-Classical Palacio de Gobierno, on the south side, contains murals by Arturo Garciá Bustos that show key moments from Oaxacan history and legend. The pedestrianized Calle Alcalú leads to the monumental former monastery and church complex of Santo Domingo. The inside of the church is decorated with a profusion of colorful Baroque ornaments, statues and altars. Of particular interest are the family tree of St Domingo de Guzmán, the founder of the order, sculpted as a vine with leaves and tendrils; Old and New Testament scenes on the barrel roof; the main altar; and the adjoining Capilla del Rosario (Rosary Chapel). Attached to the church is the former monastery, now the Museo Regional del Estado. Among the highlights of the collection are the Zapotec and Mixtec artifacts fashioned from gold, jade, silver, turquoise and quartz that were excavated from Tomb Seven at Monte Albán. Outside, the former monastery gardens are being re-landscaped and planted with Oaxacan flora, including some dramatic cacti. Also well worth a visit are the Rufino Tamayo and Contemporary Art museums.
Two churches central to the religious life of the area are the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad with its statue of the Virgin of la Soledad, patron saint of the town, to whom many miracles are ascribed, and San Juan de Dios, the oldest church in Oaxaca.