Cuisine:

• French
• Continental

Pavil Restaurant & Bar Description:
Major money was lavished upon the city's only brasserie---only to have the label dropped, along with most things French on the menu. Massive mirrors and miles of brass still dazzle, however, and if certain unfamiliar dishes such as duck rillettes have met their maker, there are the escargots in puff pastry to compensate. Start with the impeccable oysters and continue through the duck leg confit salad to pan-seared wild sea scallops in black butter or a daily special such as the earthy cassoulet in either the classic or vegetable version. And as chef Scott Cohen has a real feel for fish, try his sole Côte d'Azur, a re-baptized wild lemon sole that's been sautéed. We're neutral on steaks such as the hanger with passable frites, but Thursday's braised lamb shanks are first-rate. The well-wrought wine list is still strong on French selections, and its dry rosés are perfect for both San Antonio and the setting. Desserts such as crêpes are subversive. End the evening with a glass of la fée verte (absinthe) at the long, zinc bar counter.


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